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If you listen carefully near the metal grate beneath your feet, you might hear water sloshing about. You're actually standing over the waters of San Francisco Bay. And if you look straight down through the grate, you might be able to see water down there crashing into a concrete barrier. That's San Francisco's seawall.
Listening to those waves, you might imagine that the seawall's main purpose is to hold the water out. But it's not that kind of wall. Bay water seeps in through the sandy muddy soils beneath the wall. The seawall doesn't keep water out. It holds the land in. It prevents erosion of the landfill behind it, the soils and debris that were dumped there in the late 1800s. Without the seawall, waves from the Bay would gradually wash away this unconsolidated fill.
In the 1840s when the city was first developing, merchants and other businesses desperately needed more flat lands to build on this very hilly city of sand dunes. So they began dumping the sand into the shallow waters of Yerba Buena Cove, an inlet that spanned much of what is now downtown San Francisco. As the newly added sand formed new land, developers could build warehouses, hotels, saloons, entire new city blocks. The filled land had the added benefit of being closer to the deep waters of San Francisco Bay, so large cargo ships could more easily unload their goods. Throughout the 1850s, even in the wake of devastating fires, workers filled more and more of the cove, says archaeologist James Delgado.
JAMES DELGADO
That sand—dumped on top of burnt out pilings, collapsed buildings, and even ships—extended San Francisco's waterfront by blocks. That filling would continue from 1851 all the way through 1855. Until finally the state legislature passed a bill that said San Francisco can only fill to this line. And that's the line that San Francisco ultimately met. We know that line because today it's the Embarcadero.
NARRATOR
But the newly created land was unstable. Waves washed away the sand causing some early buildings to crack and sink. So in 1867, the State of California's Board of Harbor Commissioners began to design and build the first seawall. One of the first segments ran along Front Street just beyond the parking lot across from the Exploratorium. This new seawall made of rock ran along city streets forming a jagged sawtooth shape. The flaw in this design soon became obvious. Silt started to collect in the inlet of the sawtooth, making it too shallow for ships to get close to shore. In 1870, the Port of San Francisco mapped out a new seawall in a straight line, some four miles along today's Embarcadero. This new seawall, the one we have today, ran along the edge between two underwater landscapes, says environmental scientist Lauren Stoneburner from the San Francisco Estuary Institute.
LAUREN STONEBURNER
San Francisco's modern shoreline today actually ends at a point where shallow bay turned into deep bay. And that was about 18 feet deep. Eighteen feet is the cut-off for photosynthetic activity in the water column. And so you're gonna have a lot more productivity in that shallow bay and beyond 18 feet, it's a different landscape. So this seawall is being built right at the edge of the border between shallow bay and deep bay.
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Today, that shallow bay landscape is gone, but water from the Bay still seeps in underneath the Financial District, says Jim Delgado.
JAMES DELGADO
The landscape of today defined by concrete and asphalt and steel and glass that rest atop an earlier landscape of mud and natural organisms and of tides, which despite the fact the modern city overlays them continue to rise and fall beneath the streets and sidewalks of the Financial District. At every stage, as we have excavated we constantly have to pump because the tide still comes in and rises to the original level that it did long before that area was filled to become the Financial District.
NARRATOR
It took more than 30 years to finish the seawall. For each section, crews had to dredge a trench 40 feet deep into the Bay mud. They then filled that trench with boulders from Telegraph Hill, piling more and more rocks on top to re-raise it to the level of the city streets. This was state-of-the-art engineering at the start of the 20th century. One hundred years later, we've learned that this seawall design is highly vulnerable to earthquake damage. Continue on to the next track to learn more.